As an Israeli Jew, even I myself
am surprised at having written a piece inspired by Muslim mosque calls (Azaan).
Growing up in the outskirts of Jerusalem, across a Wadi (small canyon)
from an Arab village, I remember hearing the Azaan as a
child. The Azaan
is chanted five times a day (beginning at dawn, at various times of the
day depending on the position of the sun, and finally at night). It is
recited by a Muezzin, amplified by loudspeakers, and is ubiquitous
throughout the Middle East. Many Jews in Israel hear the chants through
filters of disdain due to the terrible bloodshed associated with the
Arab-Israeli conflict. But after living in America for more than a
decade, I was able to zoom-out and dissociate myself somewhat from the
feelings of raw hatred. Returning to Israel, I discovered a new-found
beauty in the Azaan. I also realized that they are very similar to
Yemenite Hebrew chants that I learned for my Bar Mitzvah (my ethnic
origins are half Yemenite-Jewish, half-Romanian Jewish)
With an American passport, I traveled to the Muslim countries of
Egypt, Jordan, and Morocco. My favorite Azaans were in rural villages near
lush oases. There is nothing like waking up in a tent at the pre-dawn
hours to this solemn timeless chant. Or sitting in the shade of the palm
tree at noon, listening to the chant break the silence of the desert
heat. But nowhere are the Azaans most pronounced than in Cairo, one of
the most densely populated cities in the Muslim world. One of the first
things my taxi driver told me on the way from the Cairo airport was that
there are over 1 million mosques in the city. At the prescribed times of
the day, they all blare their Azaans and the city literally vibrates with
the Muezzins' nasal cries of religious fervor. Added to that mix, there
is another aspect of the Cairo soundscape: car horns.
Around the clock,
on every street, drivers are constantly beeping their horns. If anyone
thinks New York City is bad in this regard, I guarantee that Cairo is at
least ten times worse, partly because it combined with the sounds is smell
and chaos of livestock (camels, donkeys, chickens), open sewers, dusty
sidewalks, absence of smog control, complete disregard for stop lights and
right of way, pedestrians of all ages everywhere and blistering heat . The New York Times recently published an article
about the health hazards of
Cairo's noise levels. Yet as hectic as the metropolis is, it
ends abruptly at the Giza pyramids. Beyond it is the vast Sahara
desert, where all one hears is the sand blowing in the wind and scorpions
scurrying between the rocks. Deep into this desert, around Oases,
minarets towers raise again, chanting a very different Azaan from Cairo's.
This satellite image shows the starkly dramatic border between
desert, city, and cultivated land. Desert-river-desert: A-B-A
form.
In this composition, I contrast my impressions of the Azaan, Cairo's
musical street-din, and the irresistible secular dances of the Middle
East. Hardly a day passes when that region is not on the world news
headlines. The news are usually bad, yet we must not give up hope. I
think one of the first steps towards peace would be for each side to
understand and appreciate the rich beauties of the other's culture. This
is my attempt to do that.